#168: Mardale – Flooding of a valley

...in which we head east to one of Lakeland’s loneliest dales, and tell the story of a once-thriving valley lost beneath the dammed waters of Haweswater.

In the company of local historian and dialect champion Jean Scott-Smith, we set the historic scene on Mardale, cradled in the Far Eastern Fells and overlooked by a British fort, a Roman Road and Scandinavian shielings.

Proceeding into the 18th century, Jean paints a picture of a bustling farmed valley, with rich dairy pastures and a steady flow of traders and packmen making their way over the passes of Nan Bield and Gatesgarth and down past High and Low Water.

Recounting tales of the Kendal Archers, boisterous nights at the Old Dun Bull (where buckets of ale were passed around) and the legendary week-long Mardale Shepherds Meet (originally held on High Street, latterly at the Dunnie), we introduce a range of local characters, from the Kings of Mardale to eccentric ‘Old Barham’ the vicar, who bled parishioners using a tortoise-shell lancet.

With the waters of Thirlmere insufficient to meet the growing thirst of Manchester, we learn about Manchester Corporation’s acquisition of the valley – with barely a whisper of protest – and, following the Haweswater Act of 1919, the subsequent abandonment of the hamlets of Measand, Mardale Green and Whelter before the grammar school was relocated, the church taken down and Royal Engineers arrived with explosives to raze the remaining farms and homesteads.

Heading up-dale to rain-drenched Mardale Head, Jean points out landmarks uncovered by the summer’s drought – including foundations of the Dun Bull, and the old valley road (its walls as they were 90 years after the terminal flood) – before noting nearabouts landmarks – the corpse road to Shap, the grandstand-view peatcutters’ huts, the former navvie settlement of Burnbanks.

Closing the pod in Shap’s upper graveyard – where many of Mardale’s dead were reinterred – we reflect on the passing of a community; on the media circus that unfolds in dry years; and on the surprise discovery of Mardale’s long lost church organ.

• Shap Local History Society holds an extensive archive, including artefacts and images relating to Mardale, at their Heritage Centre, Market Cross, Shap. The archive is open by arrangement – please contact either 01931 716671 or 01931 716386.

Mark’s linescape of Mardale Head before the arrival of Haweswater.

Mark and our guest for the day – the fabulous Jean Scott-Smith.

September view of a rainy Haweswater after a dry summer. You can clearly see the walled valley road, and the junction below Wood Howe – the left turn crosses the beck before rising to Mardale Church and the vicarage. The ruins on the right are of the Dun Bull Hotel. Just in evidence beyond the grassy mound to the left of Wood Howe are the foundation stones of the church.

Before the flood: the Dun Bull Hotel near Mardale Head – site of many a boisterous evening. In front of it is the bowling green / tennis lawn. Its outline can still be seen in drought years. All photos reproduced with thanks to, and permission of, Shap Local History Society.

Looking south along the former valley road. Note that the original road (now on the east side of the valley), ran along the west side of the lake, which was part-divided by ‘The Straits’ into High and Low Water. The photo was taken by the Abraham Brothers of Keswick.

The rich dairy meadows of Upper Mardale, Harter fell rising left and the wooded Rigg in the centre. The Dun Bull Hotel can be seen in the valley, left, and the church to the right of the Rigg.

Another Abrahams’ photo, this time of Mardale Church, dwarfed by ancient yews. The church was located between The Rigg and one-time hill of Wood Howe (now an island).

Mary Bell and geese. Mary was the daughter of Thomas Bell, who lived at Grove Brae – one of the Dun Bull farms.

Goosemire farm - a typical whitewashed Lakeland dwelling.

Measand School. When the valley was abandoned, the school was relocated to Walmgate – you can still see the inscription on the much-altered house from the road.

Looking west up Riggindale, The Rigg to the left, packhorse bridge in the centre and church beyond. In years of extreme drought – like 1995 – the bridge emerges from the reservoir. All the valley trees were felled before the reservoir level rose.

Farmers and hounds gather for the final ever Mardale Shepherds’ Meet.

The last service was held at the valley church on 18 August, 1935. At 3pm the Bishop of Carlisle addressed not just the usual handful of parishioners, but a crowd 2,000–3,000 strong, who spilled out of the yew-shaded churchyard onto the hills around as he read the words of Psalm 121: “I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help.”

Cross in the upper graveyard at Shap made from flags taken from Mardale Church. It covers a mass grave of exhumed bodies from Mardale.